As with other great food cities—Paris, say, or Hong Kong—Rome’s most profound gastronomic triumphs often lie buried, like ancient ruins, beneath a welter of dishes imported from other regions of the ...

If you buy something from a link, Vox Media may earn a commission. See our ethics statement. The past appears almost nonchalantly in Testaccio, a Roman neighborhood both centrally located and a world ...

47-30 Vernon Boulevard (near Jackson Avenue), Long Island City, Queens; (718) 937-2900, testacciony.com. Midpriced Italian restaurants can be as predictable as cupcake places: the same five flavors ...

What do vendors sell at this market? There are stalls selling fresh fruit and vegetables, local cheeses, bread, meat and fish, plus vendors selling clothes, shoes and accessories. What are your ...

In the middle of Rome’s trendiest neighborhood, surrounded by sushi restaurants and nightclubs with names like Rodeo Steakhouse and Love Story, sits the ancient world’s biggest garbage dump—a 150-foot ...

A bit out of the way, not known for its architecture or art, Testaccio is where Roman cuisine was born. Here the food is as genuine as the people. Just skirting the edge of the old city, you will find ...

During our most recent visit to Rome, old friends Serenella and Mario Franchi asked my husband and me to dinner. “Where to?” we inquired, and the unequivocal answer was, “In Testaccio, of course.” Of ...